All That Glitters –
Fashion From the Collection
By Melissa Maynard
“Fashion is all about image, the entrance you make and who
you impress. Women are fascinated by dress and costume and fancy
special occasion dresses,” says Indianapolis Museum of Art
curator Niloo Imami-Paydar.
All That Glitters: Fashion from the Collection is an exhibition
on view through May 4th at the Indianapolis Museum of Art that features
20 decadent evening gowns from great European and American designers
including Chanel, Givenchy, Guy Laroche, Halston, Blass and Norell.
This exhibit features some of the greatest designers of all time.
After World War II, women really wanted to indulge themselves in
luxurious garments made of incredible fabrics adorned with everything
from extravagant beading to silk lace to sequins. This museum collection
draws upon that, since the entire collection features dresses embellished
with beads, sequins, pearls and some with gold lamé and other
scintillating fabrics. In the past, dressmaking was a true work
of art. The pieces shown at the museum were all hand beaded –
which truly makes each piece one-of-a-kind.
For hundreds and thousands of years and throughout many different
cultures beads have been made out of glass, ivory, wood, shells,
bone, stone, clay and other precious metals to show the wearer’s
social status, wealth and/or power. Much the same way, women today
carry a designer handbag to symbolize their status.
Some of the most spectacular dresses featured in the exhibit include
the floor-length Halston- the minimalist master of cut, the Fontana
sisters evening dress from the 50s – who dressed screen sirens
like Sofia Loren and Coco Chanel’s evening suit from about
1965 – a gift to the museum from Ambassador George Geldman
and Miss Margot Feldman. For more information visit www.ima-art.org.
Indianapolis Museum of Art
4000 Michigan Road
Indianapolis, Indiana 46208
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Halston - American
Evening Ensemble, about 1980
The dress, belt and jacket of the ensemble are embroidered with
bugle and pearl beads in a hexagonal pattern. Halston was particularly
fond of this pattern and incorporated it in many of his creations.
The simple sleeveless dress with deep scoop neckline is worn
with a superbly constructed jacket. The jacket is made from
a single piece of fabric in a circular format with batwing sleeves.
The sleeves circle the front and are gathered at the shoulders.
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Norman Norrell –American
Norell was the first American fashion designer to have his name
on a dress label. Simple, elegant and well-made clothes that
would last and remain fashionable for many years became the
hallmark of Norman Norell.
This elegant ensemble embodies everything that Norell was about.
The lampshade-shaped top, which is elegantly embroidered all
over the bugle beads, is edged with mink. A simple, straight-cut
long skirt completes the outfit. This silhouette was made popular
around 1910 and was again introduced in the 1930s.
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Coco Chanel - French
Evening Suit, about 1965
This spectacular ensemble is made of metallic threads, not only
in gold and silver, but also in pastel shades of blue, lavender,
ochre and white in a floral pattern. The suit is an example
of Chanel’s trademark two-piece and three-piece suits.
She borrowed the concept for the suits from the male wardrobe,
but tailored them in luxurious, feminine fabrics. This suit
has a very fitted look, which was an unusual silhouette for
Chanel. The edges of the jacket and top of the patch pockets
are trimmed with an elaborate braid, which is composed of gold
and yellow sequins encased in metallic gold mesh and clear mesh.
The buttons are the finest type, which adorned only Chanel’s
most expensive made-to-order garments. They display fleurettes
surrounded by filigree work and are finished with brass rope-twist
trim over a polished steel plate, which shines through the filigree
work.
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Fontana – Italian
Ball Gown, early 1950s
The house of Fontana was famous for designing lavish evening
gowns and lace wedding dresses. The Fontana sisters were also
jewelry artists and incorporated the designs of their costume
jewelry in their fashion line. This grand and very showy silk
velvet ball gown is hand-embroidered. The style of the gown,
with its attached long panels suspended from the shoulders,
was influenced by 18th- century French and English court dresses.
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