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Fashion's Artistic Flair

Spring fashion warms up 2008 by bringing the liveliness and inspiration of art into each unique and thoughtful garment, managing to somehow melt away the rigid predictability of collections past. Among designers like Miuccia Prada, Chanel, and Dolce & Gabbana exists an evocative world of mythical mermaids, striking flowers and paint-splattered palettes, turning each collection into an exhibit armed for the most scrutinizing art enthusiasts.

Prada’s light, whimsical fabrics provide a backdrop for depictions of seemingly enchanted forests through willowy scribbles of color, mythical fairies and vibrant greenery. These spring-inspired concepts are anything but traditional, yet perhaps most startling are the wild giant flowers opening their boldly colored petals in ways reminiscent of the erotic flowers of Georgia O’Keefe. Just as whimsical are Zac Posen’s watercolor dresses, with colors and folds similiar to a rippling ocean. Posen’s mermaid-style gowns take this watery perception to a higher level, adding to the mysticism of spring, while staying true to the classic essence of glamour.

Dolce & Gabbana take a more contemporary approach in portraying art this spring. Splattered, opulent colors of plum, maize, green, pink and fuchsia in billowing skirts and shocking black crinoline evoke a sense of conceptual modern art. Floral also plays a role in D&G’s overall collection, but one that is a little less thematic than what we see in Prada’s collection. These florals vary from pastels to bolds, from orchids to lilacs, to flowers present only as part of textured fabric and reminiscent of opulent,
old-fashioned wallpaper.

While Prada and Dolce & Gabbana display a more dramatic side to art, labels like Chanel and Armani Privé show feminine deco-shaped detailing on ‘30s and 40s-inspired dresses and jackets. For Chanel, these sparkling shapes include sequined and beaded fans, while for Armani Privé, the metallic deco-shapes are at the center, emphasizing the waist either as part of a belt, or as part of the garment.

Chloé approaches this world of wearable art more casually than other designers. Her light, flowing garments are brightly splattered with colors of fuchsia, navy, purple and maize, without reverence to fine detailing and cinched waists. Stella McCartney still manages to bring us unique surprises, with suspenders, sheer royal-blue pants and layering of fabrics.

Still artistically inventive, and perhaps most spring-like this season, are the designs presented by Thakoon Panichgul and Cynthia Rowley. Thakoon’s florals, straw hats and Bermuda shorts assert the impending warm weather, while serving as a canvas to splashes and mosaics of bright colors. Cynthia Rowley takes a more direct approach to addressing art by drawing inspiration from New York painter, Kristin Baker. Rowley’s designs match Baker’s expertise in abstract expressionism, with “explosion print” dresses that, while contemporary, emerge willowy and playful.

We welcome a spring season that manages to delight our fashion senses while paying respect to the age-old, thought-provoking power of art and take delight in the fact that this season has us talking about so much more than shapes and colors.
-Georgia Bistolaridis

Start from the top left to bottom:
Visitations, Jane Fulton Alt, Fine Art Photography, Evanston, IL and
Sestra Moja halterneck dress, $320, www.sestramoja.co.uk
Zac Posen sunset silk dress, $1,500, www.eluxury.com and Ed Clark, Egyptian Series, 1997, acrylic on canvas, 32” x 71”, G.R. N’Namdi Gallery, Chicago
Thakoon jacket, $4,950, www.thakoon.com and William Conger, Chinatown,
2007, oil on canvas, 60.5” x 60.5, Roy Boyd Gallery, Chicago

Start from the top middle to bottom:
Prada fairy dress, price upon request, www.prada.com and Christine Ilewski,
Puppets, II, 24”x20”acrylic on vintage fabric on panel, Ossia Fine Arts Space, Chicago
Chanel Couture, price upon request, www.chanel.com and Tamara de Lempicka, Portrait of Mrs. Alan Bott, 1930
Thakoon pixelated floral cotton cuban shirt - $795, pixelated floral short - $595, short at Ikram, Chicago and Sarah Krepp, White Noise: Riptides II, 2008, oil, acrylic on linen (mixed media), 35” x 35.5”, Roy Boyd Gallery, Chicago
Cynthia Rowley explosion print dress, $400, www.cynthiarowley.com and
Kristin Baker, The Unfair Advantage 2003, acrylic on PVC, 152.4 x 274.3 cm,
The Saatchi Gallery, London

 


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